Swat — A lovely tragedy

I came to a niche in which I could see Swat Valley in all its glory; it turned into a humbling moment.

The beautiful Swat valley has been on the epicentre of many tragedies, so much so that even the palms writing her elegies have run out of phrases. Be it extremism or disaster, there may be no calamity that has not yet descended upon the dwellers of Swat. once I arrived in Swat after passing through many army checkpoints, it turned into past due night. I marvelled at my scenic surroundings and inhaled the autumnal air. the total moon appeared to play hide and are seeking for.

A nicely-knowledgeable and young Pakhtun cabbie stood in the front of me — a severe look in his eyes, a grin gambling on his lips.


“Sahib, are you here for a visit? have to I take you to a hotel? he requested.

i ended up going with him to Swat's Mingora bazaar which became bursting with life. i discovered it vastly one of a kind from my final visit which changed into an amazing 10 years in the past. Now it is also boasts of the many designers of the stores. The most effective component that has remained unchanged over the years is the gang. It become here that a fellow traveler had presented me a cup of kahva (traditional inexperienced tea). As I stood there reminiscing approximately the kahva, I could odor its aroma inside the air. Mingora also brought back my carefree youngsters — while there was constantly plenty of energy and no regulations. we would comic story about Pakhtuns in front of them inside the bazaar. The jokes could invite nothing however energetic cackles and twinkling eyes.

so much had modified for the reason that then, I mused. I cruised through the bazaar for a long term, watching humans. Later, I spent to the night besides to the River Swat in the Fiza Ghat about it. I awakened to a crystal clear sky the next morning. soon afterwards, I hit the road to pressure through the streets of Swat.

intending closer to Kabal tehsil from Mingora, I could see masses of cemented hyperlink roads, shining inside the sunlight. I noticed many trucks piled with vegetables and different goods. I saw small to the canals irrigating fields and  the bridges erected on the canals with signboards to the thanking the Saudi Fund for the improvement Pakistan.

The disputes on distribution of irrigation water have to have reduced, I concept to myself. This come to be confirmed with the aid of a neighborhood named Khazta Baz Khan with whom I interacted whilst he have become taking part in the early-morning sunlight hours on his charpoy within the center of his field.

"inside the strengthen to the fields near to the streams is a might  to be take in all of the water on the a few point of the drought season, leaving not anything for the tail-quit fields it is all about which get some irragation. throughout the rainy season, water ought to overflow, developing a flood-like situation. Now, as a minimum, all of the fields receive their fair proportion of irrigation water."

I sat with Baz Khan on his charpoy. An historic cassette participant performed his favorite cassette. He informed me that he had preserved it for decades. After a quick chit chat, his servant fetched us a jug of clean buttermilk.

“Khan sahib! What’s this woman making a song?” I requested.

"My splendor has killed half of the village and the other half of might be killed quickly."

We chortle loudly, rousing his labourers picking tomatoes in the subject who, too, smile.

Khazta Baz Khan.
Tomato fields.
I spent at the night time in the  Khwazakhela after the  wandering via 4-five villages in the Kabal during the day. It became a chilly night. within the darkish, the fields regarded to have vanished and the electric bulbs in the distance had been the handiest signs and symptoms of civilisation. there was no moon and no humans within the streets while only a little at the same time as in the past, youngsters had performed at the streets.

next day, I went to a village in Matta tehsil. I noticed some children gambling within the streets who I note appearance afraid for a few reason. I additionally met with some locals and heard their tales of hardships and grievances. I learnt approximately the improvement works carried out by using the United nations development Programme (UNDP) in collaboration with SFD.

One nearby I met with — Zor Talab Khan — presented me to take a seat with him on his charpoy. We commenced speaking.

I requested him what were the issues that locals confronted whilst there was no link avenue to his village, which become a very good six kilometres faraway from the primary street on pinnacle of a high hill.
. It took  hours to get to the principle road from here. halfway, he asked us to decrease the charpoy because he knew he would not survive. We saved on foot and he saved screaming after which...died."

After he relayed his story, Khan became absolutely silent. Seeing moisture building up in his eyes, I changed the subject and began speakme about mundane things.

when I took my go away, youngsters started out following me. I reached the principle street, wherein I noticed a truck crammed with people. I hopped directly to my jeep.


The truck and my jeep had been going for walks parallel. A Pashto track played in the truck. My driver started out making a song the song as well. I asked him to the translate the lyrics for  me.

Jab the foremost is a gaun se jaun ga, to ye gaun akela hojaye ga

Rotey  roye rotey aao, mera aakhri deedaar to kar lo

The village may be forlorn when I depart this region

Come for the closing time and meet me

We drove past roads coated with peach and apple timber — which had commenced shedding leaves because of autumn. Zor Khan's heartbreaking tale ricocheted thru my mind. There can be infinite such memories right here, I thought.


Swat's brief link roads have paved the way for better employment opportunities. the development of bridges over streams has made the daunting assignment of going to school simpler for college kids. these bridges are the roads to goals and higher futures.

We skip through a village in Khwazakhela. at the back of the snow-blanketed peaks of Hindukush, the sun turned into approximately to set.

i stopped at River Swat. The setting is a sun casted an a orange glow over to the water.  labourers have been on their way domestic after a tough day of work.

 the  whole solitude which is about the, I watched  the cranes flying over to the river with Kalaam's mountain peaks and within the backdrop. I watched to 
 the birds vanishing as a darkness took or the over.

I stood up to and the began the ascent of the emerald mine in front of me. After a strenuous climb, I got here to a gap where I may want to see the valley in all its glory; it become a humbling second. I could not fathom that this little valley had as soon as been in the throes of militancy.